The Bike of Doom

What tools do you need to keep your cheap-as-borscht Canadian Tire SuperCycle SC1800 bicycle in tip-top condition? I’m glad you asked! Here’s what’s in my SC1800 toolbox. I’ve provided product names, numbers and prices. All products are from MEC, except for the Adjustable wrench which is from Canadian Tire. You can find these tools at your Local Bike Shop, too, so look around and buy where you see fit.

I bought these tools one or two at a time as the need arose, over the course of a few months. You can save yourself the trouble and buy them all at once, if you like. Some of these tools, as described here, may be the wrong size or type for other bikes, but in general you’ll need the same tools no matter what kind of bike you want to maintain or repair. In other words, these tools will not be a wasted investment if you end up buying a different, more expensive bike down the road. Don’t be intimidated by the names or seemingly obscure purposes of some of these tools. I’ve found them all pretty easy to use, and once you get the hang of it maintaining or repairing your bike will be a breeze.

	Adjustable wrench or 15 mm wrench — For removing the wheel axle bolts. The SC1800 does not come equipped with quick release skewers, something you’ll be glad of if you commute because you won’t have to worry about your wheels being swiped when you stop at a red light. Canadian Tire, Mastercraft Maximum Adjustable Wrench, Product #58-8338-4, $16.99
	Pedal Wrench — This is a 15 mm wrench with a slightly angled head that’s big enough and shaped just right to allow you to apply enough torque to remove any pedal. A must have.Filzer Pedal Wrench - 15mm, Product Number: 5010-477, $12.00
	Crank bolt remover/crank puller multi-tool — This tool has two sides that spin freely of each other. The first side allows you to remove the bolts that hold the pedal cranks to the Bottom Bracket spindle. The other side allows you to remove the pedal cranks once the aforementioned bolts have been removed. Filzer Crank Multi Wrench, Product Number: 5010-744, $14.00
	Bottom Bracket Lockring wrench — Use this to remove the Bottom Bracket lockring, the big round ring on the non-drive-train side of the bottom bracket with notches in it. Notches in the tool fit into the notches on the lockring. The lockring holds the BB ball bearing cup firmly in place. Filzer Bottom Bracket Hook Spanner, Product Number: 5010-727, $13.00
	Bottom Bracket cup pin wrench — Use this to remove, tighten, and adjust the Bottom Bracket cup. The cup has two slots, or two holes in the side. The adjustable pins fit in those holes and the tool allows you to loosen the cup to get at the bearings and spindle inside the bottom bracket. Filzer Bottom Bracket Cup Tool, Product Number: 5010-721, $11.00
	Cone wrenches — Use these to adjust the tightness of the axle/bearings on your wheels. On the front wheel of the SC1800, the cups are 13 mm and the locknuts are 17 mm (you need two separate wrenches), and on the rear wheel the cup is 15 mm and the locknut is 17 mm. So you’ll need a 13, a 15 and a 17 mm cone wrench. These often come as double headed (a head at each end). Mine are 13/14, 15/16, and 17/18. Those do fine for me because the 13, 15, and 17 are all on different wrenches. Filzer Double Cone Wrench 13/14mm, Product Number: 5010-715, $6.50; Filzer Double Cone Wrench 15/16mm, Product Number: 5010-717, $6.50; Filzer Double Cone Wrench 17/18mm, Product Number: 5010-718, $6.50
	Chain tool — a handy little tool to break your chain. Why would you want to break your chain? Because on modern chains, taking one link apart is sometimes the only way to take the chain apart and get it off (or back on). A must have. Keep one of these in your emergency pack, too. Cyclo Hyperglide Cycle Chain Tool, Product Number: 1808-393, $10.00
	Hex wrenches (multi) — there are hex bolts in various locations on the bike including the headset and break calipers. Use these to adjust these where you find them. A hex multi set is a good idea, because not all these nuts are the same size. Filzer Y Tool 2/2.5/3mm, Product Number: 5010-746, $6.75; Filzer Y Tool 4/5/6mm, Product Number: 5010-745, $6.75
	Freewheel Cassette remover — You’ll need to remove the freewheel on the rear wheel if you want to replace spokes on the drive train side of the wheel. This (combined with the chainwhip below), allows you to remove the cassette easily, gaining access to the spokes on that side of the wheel. It’s just a little attachment that can be used with any ratchet or even a hex wrench. Filzer Freewheel Remover - Shimano, Product Number: 5010-471, $4.90
	Chainwhip — a handy tool that is wrapped around the cassette and allows you to turn it. Filzer Chain Whip Tool, Product Number: 5010-476, $19.50
	Headset wrench –Wrench for adjusting the headset (where the handlebars and gooseneck are attached to the frame. You probably won’t need this, but just in case. Filzer Headset Wrench 30/32mm, Product Number: 5010-728, $18.00
	Spoke wrench — essential for tightening or loosening spokes, removing broken spokes, installing new ones. I like the multi-sized wrench that can adjust any size of spoke nipple. Keep one of these in your emergency pack, too. Filzer Spoke Wrench - Multispoke, Product Number: 5010-468, $6.75
	Cable cutter — tool for cutting brake and gear cables. You’ll need this. Don’t try it without it, you’ll just make a mess of the cable. Likely, you’ll need to cut the cables any time you install a new one. Filzer Cable Cutter, Product Number: 5010-481, $22.00
	Floor pump — It’s great for pumping up tires quickly, as compared to the much less efficient portable pump you’ll keep in your emergency kit for use on the road. Beto Cycling Floor Pump, Product Number: 4013-154, $19.75

In addition to the tools above, a pair of pliers might come in handy, as would a small philips head and flat-head screwdriver. You’ll also need sundry supplies to keep the bike lubricated, parts cleaned, and your hands looking human after you finish working on your bike.

	Chain lubricant — whatever lubricant you like. I use an artificial, biodegradable lube from MEC. It seems to stay on even in wet weather. MEC Bike Lube - Dry, Product Number: 5007-868, $9.75
	Grease — for the various springs on the bike (derailer), as well as for repacking bearings when you do an overhaul of the bottom bracket or wheel hubs.Phil Wood Waterproof Grease, Product Number: 1899-186, $6.50
	Spray lube — handy for lubing various small components, like the guidewheels on the rear derailer. Super Lube Synthetic Lube, Product Number: 1899-152, $9.00
	Chain cleaner — a handy little tool that you attach to your chain. It has brushes that scrub the chain clean as you turn the pedals. MEC Chain Cleaner, Product Number: 4007-008, $5.50
	Cleaning fluid/degreaser — biodegradable chain cleaning fluid to be used with the chain cleaner tool above. Takes the grease and dirt right off your chain and makes it seem like new. Can also be used as degreaser for bearings, other parts. MEC Bio-Cycle 4 Liter Chain Cleaner, Product Number: 4013-746, $13.00
	Cleaning brush — used with cleaning fluid, lets you scrub at those difficult, really dirty bits that need some extra work. Also allows you to get between the rings in your cassette. Filzer Gear Cleaning Tool, Product Number: 5010-470, $6.50
	Hand cleaner — Must have. Grease is hard to remove from your hands. This stuff gets it off in a flash. Gentle on the hands, too, and smells nice. Worx Hand Cleaner, Product Number: 5008-962, $6.50

How much is all this going to cost? Well, add up the tools alone, and they come to about $195.00. That may seem like a lot, especially considering the SC1800 only costs $99, but keep this in mind: if you’re going to ride this bike for any amount of time, it’ll need maintenance and repairs. If you don’t do it yourself, you’ll need to take it into a shop. A basic quick annual tune-up will run you $69 at most bike shops. If you need a bottom bracket overhaul, or wheel hub overhaul, increase that to $149 (or buy a new bike). And you’ll need that every year.

Add in repairs (wheel truing runs $20 a time now), and it quickly adds up. In my experience, spending $200 on a bike annually to keep it running well is to be expected–� if you take it to a bike shop, that is. If you spend $195 on the tools above, you’ll be able to do all that yourself, and the cost is one-time–� not every year. Your tools will pay for themselves within the first year, and you’ll be able to use them on any other bike you own.

As for the other supplies, well, they’re just part of the expense of owning a bike and keeping it running smoothly, and keeping it clean. Get used to it. Most of those supplies will be used up within a year, so that will be a repeating expense.